Thursday, July 12, 2012

Bay Area Wedding Part 1 (The 101)

One of my good friends from college recently got married near San Jose.  As San Jose isn’t too too far away from Los Angeles (~6 hours each way), I thought it would be fun to take a few extra days off from work and drive there and back.  The groom asked me and another good friend to be groomsmen, for which we graciously accepted the honor.  That other friend lives in New York and he agreed it would be a nice vacation to drive around the Golden State with me.  And thus he flew into LAX to be with me for the long hauls there and back.  I was happy to have his company as it’s far more fun to share travel experiences with someone than merely recount time spent alone on the internet for you, dear reader.

June 21
We departed early in the day (about 7:30AM) to avoid as much of the legendarily horrendous LA traffic as possible.  For those Californians who must know, I decided to take the 101 north so that we could see some beautiful, varied scenery and stop at a nice spot like Paso Robles for lunch along the way.  It is hillier and slower than the other route, I-5 north, but that goes through the desolate Central Valley and includes over 4 hours of driving in a straight, flat line in 100 degree heat until you reach Pacheco Pass, a peacefully hilly area that passes a reservoir and some windmills.  Additionally, the only legitimate option for food that I know about along that route is the In-N-Out at Kettleman City.  Fully weighing the pluses and minuses, let it be known that you will smell manure and see cows due to nearby in parts of either route.

101 North Through the Santa Ynez Mountains
Escaping LA via 101 in the westerly direction was not rapid, yet not difficult on that weekday morning (I’m always amazed how many people live so far away in the valley) and after leaving the traffic behind we enjoyed the beauty of the trees and flowering plants lining the center of the road and the serene blue of the ocean on the west for the portion from Ventura to Santa Barbara.  Then the road turns northerly and heads on a winding uphill route over the Santa Ynez Mountains before descending back slowly into what is known as the California wine producing region known as the Central Coast.  About 40 minutes after passing through the pretty seaside city of San Luis Obispo, we arrive at Paso Robles, one of the few incorporated cities of the Central Coast.  By this time, four hours had elapsed and it was a good time for a break.

The Central Coast wineries, while not widely known when compared to the likes of Napa and Sonoma, produce some high-quality red varietals, especially Zinfandel (I mean the red; don’t even try to tell me the white is to be considered wine).  To get some recommendations of wineries to visit, my companion phoned his parents who exclaimed that Paso Robles had “GREAT” wineries, and found one they liked that was somewhat close to the highway for us to visit.  Turley had a beautiful setting with flowers and trellises leading up to their doors.  The newly constructed tasting room was gorgeous as well, affixed with rich wood everywhere including the bar.  Their zinfandels did not disappoint, and I recommend a visit if you happen to be in the area.

After conversing with the cheerily friendly and grandmotherly bartender, and telling her we had been told Justin was a great one to visit (it was later also recommended by a coworker), yet was too far from the highway for us, she suggested we drop by at the much closer Lone Madrone, which employed the same winemaker.  The five minute drive took us past serene vineyards and hills covered in golden hay (I yelled HAY! a few times to startle my friend), depositing us on a main stretch of road lined with wineries in both directions. Pulling into the gravel lot, we saw local herbs for sale.  I love smelling things so this was exciting.  Their tasting room is set in an old farmhouse style building, which was nice enough, but their wines were lacking distinction or interesting flavors; I would go so far as to call them generic.  The exception was a good barbera offered to us that was not part of the standard tasting menu, so not all their wines were disappointing. I enjoyed much more heading outside and smelling the ~10 types of basil in the herbs for sale area.

To cap off the tastings, we stopped at the Firestone Walker Brewery, where the tasting room held many eclectic selections along with some old favorites.  I am a big fan of their Double Barrel Ale which brought us there in the first place, though opted for some of the more exotic offerings on tap.  The most interesting was the anniversary blend which is a mix of most of the beers brewed on site, leading to a potent cocktail with a few too many flavors.  I also enjoyed the uniqueness of the Parabola brew, and bought a bottle to share with my friends when I got home, along with a 6-pack of pale ale to give to the groom.  To sober up for the rest of the drive, we headed next door for lunch at the Taproom, with an upscale pub-like interior and all those beers we just tasted on tap.  The food was ok, nothing stellar, and we opted to not indulge in more beer so we could survive the remaining 3+ hours of the drive.  I promised that for my next visit I would stay a few days and try more of these local beers and wines.

Hopping back on the 101, the next section of the trip was uneventful, lined mostly by green or golden hills and trees and a surprisingly high number of cars also taking this route north.  The first sign that we were once again near civilization is Gilroy, which my companion excitedly noted was home to an annual garlic festival.  The next half hour of driving grew increasingly more suburban as we neared San Jose.  We stopped momentarily to pick up the groom at his parents’ house in a San Jose suburb, then headed up the east side of the bay in rush hour traffic to prepare for the bachelor party.  This horrendous traffic heading towards Oakland on a Thursday afternoon was worse than even that of the standard Los Angeles backups and we thanked goodness for carpool lane access.  Dinner was retrieved from the Berkeley collective known as The Cheese Board, a pizza Mecca adjacent to a cheese shop with a constant line out the door.  They serve one type of pizza per day and when it’s gone, you are SOL.  Today’s selection turned out to involve zucchini and some white cheeses, along with the standard brushing of garlic olive oil that makes anything they serve delicious.  I am told their “Magic Pizza” is heavenly.

At Smuggler's Cove, San Francisco
The final link to San Francisco awaited.  Across the enormous Bay Bridge we headed.  Then a quick stop at the groom’s apartment to eat the pizza and change into some less sweaty clothes, and off to bachelor partying!  It started at an incredible bar known as Smuggler’s Cove, a pirate themed bar specializing in rum drinks made with the freshest ingredients, complete with weathered wood walls and a waterfall.  The bartenders wear Hawaiian shirts and know how to make a multitude of cocktails, so ask them for a suggestion if you are intimidated by the 10 page drink menu.  If it’s your first time visiting, keep your eyes peeled for the bouncer outside: there is no exterior sign.  I can’t gush enough about how much I enjoy the 4oz painkiller cocktail, it has everything delicious in it and as implied by the name, 4 ounces of rum.  Take a cab or the BART when you finish the night here because you won't be able to drive.  And if you are able to drive you're not doing it right.  I’m not at liberty to divulge what happened next so let’s leave it there for now.  The rest of the story soon!